November 19, Lower Sabie

Sitting at the kitchen table in our bungalow overlooking the Lower Sabie River.  Went to Johannesburg without incident on Sunday and met Gina and Aislin at the airport.  Spent the night there, then back to the Park, a night at Satara and two nights at Letaba.  Yesterday we drove from Letaba down south to Lower Sabie for two nights.  Tomorrow we head back north to Olifants for two nights, then way north to Punda Maria for a night, then on to the border with Botswana for transfer to Mashatu for three nights.  Then the long drive back to the airport and the flight home.  Days are winding down, as marked by the diminishing supply of Malarone.

Last few days have been very nice.  A few minor bumps with a jet-lagged 12 year-old but really it’s been very good.  Have modulated amount of time driving around and that’s been fine. Hippos are calling on the river about 50 yards from the kitchen. 

Aislin is a swimmer and so hit the pool at Satara.  And then at Letaba where her hair immediately turned emerald green.  Really.  Apparently they were giving the water some sort of shock treatment and forgot to put the ‘Closed’ sign up.  We are constantly warned that we enter this space or the other at our own risk but nothing warned us against a chemically charged swimming pool.  We’ll have to try and repair that when we get back.  All in all, the smallest possible problem and A loves being the center of attention….

We saw animals from the moment we entered the park, having a very close look at a rhino mother and calf on the drive from the gate to Satara.  Got a glimpse of a lion that first morning.  And of course all of the usual suspects.  Two days ago we went on morning walk with a couple of rangers and learned about yellow-billed hornbills, community spiders, ant lions, rhino poop and the breakdown of a buffalo’s skull.

This morning was rainy and cool and we got up early and went for a drive.  I think today will be known as Rhino Friday because we first saw a mother and calf sleeping in a thicket and then came to a mud wallow where there were four males hanging out.  A couple of males did some half-hearted sparring.  While I was photographing the rhinos I looked up to see a bull elephant standing right in front of the car as a group of  elephants moved into the area.  We did some careful elephant traffic management and came back.

Leading us to now.  Washing clothes by hand, Gina napping, Aislin fixing hot chocolate and a decaf instant coffee for me.  Tonight we go on an organized game drive with TOURISTS.  Agh.  On the other hand, we’ll be out at night and may see some different animals.  We’ve only had a glimpse of a lion, though last night we had a nice leopard sighting as she was sleeping on some rocks overlooking the river.  It’s pretty sweet.